Zona
6, Guatemala City (cont.)
So
that first morning it is with equal parts amusement,
exhaustion, and exhilaration that I have doffed my
clothes and sprung quickly into the shower. The turkey,
a teenager and ugly, races under the swinging shower
door and pecks at my legs, guessing me to be a slick
intruder.
“Pavo!” I shout. “Páre! (Goddamn turkey.)”
The house
is still asleep, and a few minutes later I stand freshly
clean on a piece of cardboard, hair dripping, enjoying
the sun breaking in the top of the pregnant mango
tree. The sudden heat appears to be too much: mangos
begin to moan and plummet to their succulent deaths.
I brush my teeth and spit, aiming for the turkey.
I know already we will not get along, and I tell him
in English, sweetly, “one of us eats dinner, and one
of us is dinner. Sucka.”
I tiptoe back indoors—Maria is still sleeping in the
room she has had to share with me, buried deep beneath
a pile of old blankets and dirty laundry. The windowless
room is stuffy and still but for a small whistle of
air coming from somewhere, smelling of damp. I sit
on my small single bed and prepare to comb my hair,
the room lit only by what light has blown in from
the yard, through the curtain. A large spider is making
its way up a chair leg directly across from me, its
long legs tenderly caressing the white plastic. I
watch, fascinated and disgusted. Just as the spider
reaches the chair seat, a rat darts out from underneath
it, between my legs, and under the bed.
Having stumbled from her own dark room, Fialilley
has prepared me the first in a series of intense breakfast
experiences—a deep fried bun with a greasy pepper
burrowed inside it, a hole she has cunningly created
by pushing her middle finger in it as far as it will
go. Over the months these buns will be violated by
uncooked hotdogs, chicken wings, chicken skin, and
once—just ketchup. I begin to wrap them in napkins
and run out the door, explaining how late I am for
the bus, and can I eat this delicious Guatemalan poptart
while I go?
As I walk, peeling and eating the bun skin before
tossing the rest to a pack of whiny, mangy dogs, I
notice people staring at me. The younger woman on
her way to the bakery registers a small look of surprise;
the old woman tossing out dishwater almost certainly
shakes her head. Every morning, it is the same. It
is only after three months that Fialilley reveals
my cultural transgression: “Pues, si una mujer come
cuando se anda, significa que nunca se casará.”
Well. Not only was I hungry every morning, I had evidently
condemned myself to eternal spinsterhood. Perhaps
too because any grooms-to-be along the way saw me
dismembering a bun, hands bloody with ketchup?
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