Prague: Spray Painting Freedom
By Andrea Gregory

He could feel the tension weighing in the pit of his stomach. The 24-year-old street art veteran shook the aerosol can. It was not until the gray paint hit the train that calmness washed over him. “Sometimes I have a stomach ache or stress before I go. When I start to paint, it’s over,” said Bro, who has been illegally spray painting or tagging train cars for about a decade.

In 1992, the fall of communism gave way to a generation of free thinkers and subcultures - among them, graffiti artists. Forms of expression began to evolve, and the line between vandalism and art was blurred. It is hard to walk even one city block without seeing traces of graffiti in Prague. Travel guides have begun labeling this as one of Prague's issues.

"Every year Prague spends approximately 20 million crowns on wiping out graffiti," said Jana Kobesova, spokeswoman for Prague Mayor Pavel Bem. According to Kobesova the clean-up budget has stayed relatively the same since 2001—though from 2003 to 2004, Prague did see a one million crown increase in damage at the hands of graffiti artists.

“When it is in official places, it is up to the person in charge whether he or she likes it. But if the graffiti on buildings, on city property or in the historic city center, it is always treated as vandalism regardless if it is nice or not.”

The city has designated three locations for the graffiti artists to exhibit work, but it has done little to contain the problem. Bro and several other sprayers say they will occasionally paint in approved spots, but do not stay confined to them.  For Bro, who claims to have adopted the Graffiti lifestyle, trains are his canvas of choice.

Bro spends 40 minutes leaving his mark on one of Prague’s commuter rail train cars on a Monday night, while two friends stood lookout. The finished product covers the entire car with his street name.  He said he hesitates to call it art, but boasts it is a form of expression – an expression of his identity. He is part of Prague’s youth – one of the first generations raised in a communism free era.

The city is quick to wipe out such displays of expression. He said train cars are usually cleaned the next day or taken out of service until the exterior is graffiti-free. But, still, out of all the places in Prague—or in the entire world—there is something special about spraying trains, he says.

“It’s graffiti. It’s expression. I’m doing it because I like it,” said Bro. “I’ve painted more than 500 trains.”

To showcase his work or as proof that he did it, Bro snaps a photograph before fleeing from the scene. He does it for all of his pieces to bear witness and now has a comprehensive portfolio of what many consider a crime.

“On the trains if you don’t have a picture, it’s like you didn’t do it,” he says.

Romeo, 28, is partially retired from the craft.  But every now and then he gets a sentimental calling to return to hitting trains.  The last time he sprayed his name was a few weeks ago.

“You want to see it. You want to feel it. You want to hit the trains,” he said. “It is the best time.”

Romeo is a member of the second generation of graffiti artists in Prague. He said he began doing it in 1994 when the subculture community was smaller and many of Prague’s youth were testing the limitations of freedom and expression.

Page 1 of 2  Next Page

All contents copyright ©2006 Pology Magazine. Unauthorized use of any content is strictly prohibited.