Pology Magazine  -  Adventures in Travel and World Culture.
Travel and World Culture   
Image: Costa Rica
 Photo: Steffen Foerster
Image: Costa Rica
 Photo: Jonah Manning

Costa Rica: The Language In The Jungle (cont.)

When I entered Serena, one of the first people I met was an Icelandic biologist. She was friendly and pretty, with a long gray-brown braid and a quixotic air. She worked at a Texas university, which had given her a grant to bring her graduate students here to study little orange pickles. It wasn’t going well.

“Ah,” I nodded in what I hoped was an encouraging sort of way. I knew she didn't mean 'pickles'—I was pretty sure you couldn't get a grant to hunt for wild pickles of any hue—and that it was just her accent that prevented my understanding; but I couldn't guess from context what she'd meant. Still, I didn't ask right away; I really liked the idea of someone from Iceland, working out of Texas, traveling all the way to the Costa Rican jungle, to tell a stranger from California about her unsuccessful search for little orange pickles.

It was something out of a brightly illustrated children's book.

My smile seemed to make her happy. Not many hikers had shown interest in her research, and she was tired of talking to the same small group of scientists. She spoke of how much money and effort had gone into finding them, these pickles, how much knowledge her group had hoped to gain, and that her students were growing discouraged.

Finally, I had to interrupt her, afraid I would laugh aloud, "I'm sorry, what is it exactly you're looking for?"

Possibly thinking I was slow, she enunciated clearly: "Orange Pickles. They're very small."

A group of scientists passed us by on their way to their bunkhouse and waved. It was dusk, and they all carried long sticks, tapping the grass ahead of them like wild blind men, to clear snakes from the long grass as they walked.

The scientist waved back to them, continuing with a sigh, "But we've only found four. I've been here three months, and we've only found four pickles. We're hoping they'll breed."

I coughed. "Pickles?"

"No, not pickles. Pickles! B-E-E-T-L-E-S"

That night, on the high, screened second story of the Serena ranger station, I slept on the open plank floor along with two dozen other backpackers. The moon lit the screens around us, which dipped in and out like loose ship sails, touched by the night breeze and the insistent buttings of bats and flying insects trying, trying to get in. I heard their buzz and hum as a cacophony; but the Icelandic scientist heard taxa: Alouatta, palliata; diastema; migratoria. She told me she listened at the screened edge of her bunk before she went to bed. She knew their voices, their language, and I imagined her nodding at each recognition, half-smiling to herself, enunciating the Latin name as though a welcome guest had just arrived. She listened through the monkey howls, ranger guitars and hiker voices, listening until she could pick at least three individual insect voices from the chorus. And then, she said, she could go to bed.


Anne Campisi is most often at work on The Lime Tree, an historical novel, which received the 2005 James Jones First Novel Fellowship. She holds an MFA in fiction writing from UC Irvine and was the 2001-02 writer-in-residence at Phillips Exeter Academy. Her last article for Pology, on Palmyra, Syria, appeared in the October 2005 issue. She lives in the Twin Cities.

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